Hey, so again I have been terrible at posting for an inordinate period of time. To make it up to all of you who have been missing me so much that your soul hurts (which I guess is only my mom and Nick Skaff), I will try to now post a comprehensive and detailed summary of everything exciting thats happened to me over the last month. It can be broken up into two main events, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, and my trip to the south island. This post, as you may gather from the title, will cover the first.
The Tongariro Alpine Crossing is hailed widely as the “best day walk in New Zealand”, and New Zealand is hailed widely as one of the best places to go hiking. By the transitive property, does that make the alpine crossing the best day walk in the world? Regardless, it makes it really good. For those of you who care, Mt Ngauruhoe, one of the peaks we cross, was used as Mt Doom in Lord of the Rings. One weekend a few weeks ago, a friend and I made our way down to Tongariro National Park to do the crossing. We had planned to do the crossing the entire semester, but as winter conditions required the use of crampons and ice axes, we were forced to wait till the spring time.
To quote the DOC:
The Tongariro Alpine Crossing track passes over varied and spectacular volcanic terrain. In the presence of active volcanoes you can experience some of Tongariro National Park’s special gifts. A cold mountain spring, lava flows, an active crater, steam vents, emerald-coloured lakes and magnificent views combine to make this an enjoyable and memorable trip.
Alert/Important notice
Recent heavy snowfalls have left significant snow and ice on trail, track users need to be prepared for alpine conditions.
The part of that quote that is particularly important is the Alert. It was blizzarding up there. The wind was blowing at over 50km/s, the visibility was less than 15m, and the snow/hail/ice was falling so fast and so hard, that if you looked into the wind, you were met immediately with the pain of hundreds of pieces of ice hitting your face. At one point the visibility was too poor for us to see the next trail marker, so we had to wander in the direction it seemed to be. We got lost. About 100m out we hit a flooding river, and had to turn back and make a new plan of action. We then heard some guys talking, and moved in that direction, and found some more hikers, and another marker. Relieved, we began to follow this path. The path we were on was extremely steep for a very long period of time, during which we were freezing and exhausted. I began to despair that we had accidental stumbled upon the path to the summit of the mountains, which was only to be tackled by experts (The crossing itself passes between two summits and reaches a height of 1850m, but the summit of Mt Ngauruhoe at about 2100m is a side trail that takes about 3 hours). I decided that if that was the case, I would just lie down and die at the top, because that would be much easier than coming all the way back. We climbed like 500 meters, we had to cross narrow passes no more than a few meters wide with hundred meter drops on either side, and we froze every extremity we had off. I was almost ready to just die when my friend turned to me and said “Do you remember the shire, Mr. TJ?”. That was a Lord of the Rings joke. In actuality, we reached the top, and found a sign telling us we were on the right path, and without taking a second to enjoy the feeling of being at the top of that terrible mountain we had climbed, we just continued on, thinking of nothing but our desire to reach the hut where we could rest for a bit. In the end, we made it with little more than a bit of frostnip and scarred souls, and came out with a story that my kids will probably get tired of hearing.
Now for the mothers in all of you (including my mother), who will read this and immediately want to make me come home, to be perfectly honest there was never great danger I was in. This hike while terribly exhausting, was more of a great mental battle than anything else. My fears, my exhaustion, and my cold fought my will to continue moving, and my desire not to have to get helicoptered out of there. But, the option of getting helicoptered out was always there, I had a phone with signal, and they knew that we were up there and expected us down a a certain time, so at any time on this hike little more was at stake than my pride.
In all, it was probably the physically and mentally most challenging thing I have ever done, and even emotionally difficult at a point when we got into an argument about whether it would be better for us to eat while unprotected on that freezing summit, or continue on with empty stomachs.
I guess I could just say, it was really really hard.
With that said, I will soon post about my recent trip to the south island.